Pondy - An overview

Situated on the Coromandel coast, about 160 kms south of Chennai, lies the Union Territory of Pondicherry. The French ruled this territory for 300 years, and today, it stands as a living monument of the French culture in India. It is bound on the east by the Bay of Bengal and on the other three sides by the South Arcot District of Tamil Nadu.

The Atmosphere of Excitement

You willrealise that you are in Pondicherry when the typical aroma of the place hits you! Hard to point it, really, but it could be best-described as the mingled odours of sambhar, fish, chameli flowers, agarbatti and the salty tang of the sea! Indeed, Pondy, as the locals call it, is the sensualists delight, filling up all the senses and leaving the visitor replete! That is the speciality of the Podicherry, a small territory.

The very special feature of Pondy is the two distinct ambiences that peacefully co-existthe Tamil and the French! Add to these, the lifestyle brought about by the Aurobindo Ashram and whatpeople actually have are three distinct, yet overlapping ways of life, never seeming to impinge on the other but borrowing freely and giving generously to the other. Well, if yousee a Tamilian lady decorating her porch with a rangoli of Santa Claus, wouldntit be called as a harmonious blend?

Pondy - Beach
A ten-minute drive to the north of the town brings you to these virgin sands. The ambience is well-captured in its name. You can touch the calm. Ideal for a quick dip, a touch of the sun and a cool reprieve in the shade.

Visually exciting is the sea and the raised promenade along the sea front where the Pondicherry-ites and the tourists stroll in the evenings. At this spot, there isnt really a sea beach except for the strip that belongs to the Aurobindoashram. You have to go out a bit out of Pondicherry in order to hit the beach. In the sea there are fishing boats and tankers. If one trots along to the fishermens colony or to the fish market, one can get a close dekko at the catch of the most fascinating, colourful fish, varying in Size, which could even sometimes include baby shark!

Courtesy : Subyatra.com

Walking along the seafront at sunrisea spectacular sightone can see devout Tamils doing the Suryanamaskaram ( Worshiping the Sun ). In the evenings it gets crowded with familieschildren in nylon dresses, kohl in their eyes, Ammas (Mothers)in silk or synthetic sareess, laden with fragrant flowers and sparkling jewellery, stopping to eat boiled peanuts or candy floss sold by the tambis (Young Guys) in mundus and banians. Loud, popular, south Indian songs play in the background. Sometimes devotional songs too....

Flower-power
And then, there are flowers! Tubs and strings full of them! Roses, variously hued lotus, rajnigandha, carnations, asters, champa and even orchids! Being sold for as little as Rs 5, a bunch to decorate the houses or to be offered at the temple or at the Samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and "The Mother". Itinerant flower women sell ropes of fragrant white and orange flowers to Tamil women to decorate their hair with. Big shoppers of these strings are foreigners who love to decorate their bicycles with strings of chameli.

Of arches and arcades
Pondicherrys beautiful French architecture is legendary. Huge columns, high roofs, sprawling courtyards, deep verandas and high walls surrounding the buildingsall painted grey and white (Indicating the Peace) . The French government has declared several of these to be heritage buildings and contributes to their upkeep. Covered with flowering creepers, palm and coconuts and exotic green plants,some may find an unexpected fish tank with colourful fish swimming around lazily.

Many of the old French buildings have been taken over by the UT government, the Governors residence being the jewel in the crown and many others by the ashram for its various departments. The Sri Aurobindo library with its highly polished wooden floors, the ashram schools and dining hall, the gymnasium, the art galleryare all housed in heritage French buildings. Of late, several hoteliers have taken over these buildings and converted them into swanky hotels. The Hotels are faced towards the beach making the visitors to enjoy it!

A Tamil house may sport colours like turquoise, pink and yellow with a black and golden gate. Sometimes one may see sculpted gods and goddesses vanquishing demons in the arch above the entrance. There are actually two distinct sections of townthe French section by the seafront and the Tamil section by the market.

Keeping in character are the names of the streetsRue de Marine, Mission Street, Rangapillai Road and a lot more tamil and french names. Notices in shops are written in French and English, as are the menus in many restaurants. The Polizia (policemen) still dress like French gendarme with their pillbox red hats (a lengthier one)no matter that they are chewing paan and other stuff.

Devotional places

A few steps away are the Samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother. Utmost quiet reigns here. No ceremoniesonly quiet meditation. You ll be allowed only after switching off your mobiles, hence silence guaranteed.

Feeling Hungry?
The food in Pondy! You can take your pick and at affordable rates! You could do a dosa, sapad (meals) , or different rice ( Variety rice items)or opt for a marwari thali or crunch on a pizza just baked in a mud oven. Or you can eat health food and breakfast on fresh juices, muesli and whole wheat bread. Or choose Italian pasta, French coq-au-vin, croissants, fresh fruit shakes, rich, creamy ice-creams. Or you could check out Chettinad foodthat you cant stop eating even though its burning its way into your intestines. Its too hot but rocks on you.

The Ashram has a massive kitchen-cum-dining-hall, which caters to over 1500 people per meal, and here one can get good quantities of yoghurt, porridge, steamed dals and few cups of vegetables.

Shop-till-you leave
Pondy boasts of some of the trendiest boutiques in the country with artistically done interiors, loads of space and splendid displays. Most boutiques requisition their wares either from Auroville or from Pondicherry cottage and ashram industry. Whether you visit these boutiques all dressed to the nines in silks or couture clothes or in crumpled shorts, T-shirt and chappalseverything is fine with the Pondicherry-ites.

So, when do you plan to pack your bag and baggage and make a dash for that little France in India?